Power reserve: 240 h, 18000 variations / hours
Date, Perpetual calendar, powerreserve, -
Moser Perpetual 1 / 100-pieces limited series
THE PERPETUAL GOLDEN EDITION FROM MOSERIt is now more than fi ve years since Moser introduced the Perpetual 1 as the world's fi rst watch with the already legendary Flash Calendar. It is still the only watch with a perpetual calendar which can be accessed with consummate ease and only via the crown, and without even having to read the operating instructions. No restrictions whatsoever hamper the adjustment of the calendar forwards or backwards. Not even when the watch itself is on the point of advancing to the next day. Taken together with all its other functions, this watch is still without parallel anywhere in the world. Moser has taken this minor anniversary as the opportunity to develop a strictly limited special edition of 100 pieces for collectors of the brand in the form of the PERPETUAL GOLDEN EDITION. As the name suggests, gold has a major role to play in this watch. It goes without saying that we have been accustomed for some time to all the cases of the H. Moser & Cie brand being manufactured only from precious metals. The pallet fork and the escapement wheel of the interchangeable escapement module of every watch are also made from solid gold. This naturally also applies to the Double Hairspring escapement of the GOLDEN EDITION. Likewise, the weight compensation screws of the Glucydur balance also consist of solid white gold. Apart from the Double Hairspring escapement fi rst realized by Moser with two Straumann hairsprings, which are diffi cult to manufacture and render any tourbillon superfl uous, there is nothing particularly special in all this. As if that were not enough. The extraordinary perpetual calendar from Moser and the Double Hairspring escapement are enhanced with valueretaining 18-carat rose gold as the material for the plate and bridges of the movement. In other words, a solid gold movement, complemented by mirror-fi nished steel components which could not be replaced by gold for reasons of functionality. This provides a highly attractive contrast to the matt-fi nished surface of the gold bridges and is further supplemented by the extremely intricate, and as such rare, hand-chamfering of the gold bridges. This can only be appreciated with the knowledge that the watchmaker has facetted and polished the edges by hand all the way into the smallest corners. Consequently there is no rounding, and it becomes evident – although only under a loupe – that the polishing of the edges tapers away into the corners. The Moser company seal, used as a symbol of excellent quality and authenticity for 185 years, is incidentally also engraved by hand in this movement. A further superlative is visible on the movement even without using a loupe. The MOSER PERPETUAL GOLDEN EDITION is the fi rst watch in the world to have a genuine, functional diamond end stone in the Incabloc shock-absorber. In fact, there is one on either side of the shock-absorber, even if only the stone on the movement side is visible. The jewel bearings under the end stone are also an embodiment of pure understatement. They are manufactured not from red rubies, in the conventional way, but from white sapphire. Otherwise, a red glow would emanate from the underlying jewel bearing. In the face of all these superlatives, it is only natural for the dial, the hour appliques markers and, of course, all the hands to be made of solid gold. And, in the best traditions of Moser, while the Double Hairspring escapement of the watch ensures that no gravitational error can occur, the dial has handcrafted fumé shading.This gold watch in the truest sense of the word with a perpetual calendar which can be adjusted forwards and backwards at any time, and which changes within less than one second – even when it advances directly from 28 February to 1 March – represents watchmaking at the very highest level. This watch embodies everything that H. Moser & Cie stands for. Its appearance is elegant with a touch of understatement, and the unbelievable complexity of the inhouse movements only becomes apparent on closer inspection. Two spring barrels, true bevel wheels for gentle, low-wear winding, a guaranteed 7-day power reserve, the patented Double Pull Crown system, and screwed gold mounts together with the Moser tooth system in the entire wheel train clearly demonstrate what Moser understands as traditional watchmaking. Authenticity and exclusivity down to the smallest detail and the resolve not to source parts from high-volume production of any kind.Of course, this work of art is also visible through the sapphire crystal back of the watch.
© Fondation du Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève